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Gaming
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Painting and Modeling
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Extras
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| RESOURCES
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| ARMIES
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Click
on the images to see larger versions.
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| Step
1 |
Cut out six rectangular
slabs of 2"-thick insulation foam. Since
the cliffs form a corner piece, make sure that
the two table edge sides form a 90-degree angle.
These slabs form the basic bulk and armature
of the cliff. Cut them so that they become shorter
and more shallow as they taper towards the top
of the cliff. Use Liquid Nails to glue all the
layers together and allow them to dry fully.
Drying may take as long as 24 hours.
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| Step
2 |
Use a serrated kitchen
knife to cut and hack out the proper shape of
the cliff face (watch your fingers). Don't agonize
over any details at this point. All the detailing
will happen later when you add the plaster. As
you cut, consider leaving flat surfaces to serve
as rocky paths. These areas will give you places
for your models during games. |
| Step
3 |
Cut
out a base from Masonite hardboard. It should
measure at least 3" longer than the foam
base on two of the four sides (as two of the
sides will be flush with the table edge since
it's a corner piece). Glue the carved foam cliff
to the base with Liquid Nails and allow it to
dry.
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Click on
the images to see larger versions. |
| Step
4 |
Cover the carved surface
with plaster bandages (available at most art and
craft stores). The texture of these bandages will
help the Woodland Scenics Lightweight Hydrocal
Casting Plaster (C1202) stick in the next
step. Allow the bandages to dry before moving
onto Step 5. |
| Step
5 |
Mix up a large
quantity of Hydrocal Casting Plaster and
brush
a thick layer onto the cliff face. Press a
crumpled piece of aluminium foil into
the still-wet plaster.
This process creates a rough, cracked surface
that will be much more realistic than
a bandaged
surface. Warning: The plaster
will destroy the bristles of your brush. Do
not use a good brush!
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| Step
6 |
Build
up flat areas on the cliff with Apoxie Sculpt
putty (from Aves Studio) and press stones and
pebbles of varying size (to simulate boulders)
into the putty. Push any displaced putty back
against the rocks with a wet finger or sculpting
tool. Give the putty time to dry fully before
continuing to the next step. Depending on its
thickness, this drying could take about half
a day or longer.
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Click on
the images to see larger versions. |
| Step
7 |
Apply
a layer of white glue or wood glue to certain
areas of the cliff (but not the rocks). Concentrate
most of the glue on Apoxie Sculpt areas and
on flat areas of the cliff. Sprinkle coarse
sand over the glue before it dries. Allow
the glue to dry and shake off any loose sand
into a container for future use.
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| Step
8 |
Basecoat
the entire piece of scenery with Skull White
Spray Primer. This basecoat may require a
few coats for full coverage. The plaster should
keep the foam from melting. Make sure the
primer is dry before you proceed.
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| Step
9 |
Instead
of painting the Cliffs
with Citadel Colour
Paints, I decided to try a product made by
Woodland Scenics called
Liquid Pigment Earth
Colour Kit (C1215). This box contains a foam
applicator brush plus
eight nontoxic, water-soluble
paints that simulate natural earth tones.
This kit comes with
a full set of instructions
and, if used sparingly, can last you quite
a long time.
Once the
primer is dry, heavily
dilute the kit colours
with water. Apply them
to the cliffs in a "leopard spot"
pattern with the applicator. Since stone
is very rarely one solid colour, daub on
a secondary
colour with this "leopard spot" technique.
Prepare two separate cups with the following
Earth Colours: Black (1:32 pigment to water)
and Burnt Umber (1:16 pigment to water).
Daub
the secondary colour on in rough patches.
Don't cover the entire white surface. If
the colour
is not rich enough, apply another coat once
the first is dry or cut down on the amount
of water in the mix. Don't be afraid to allow
some of this colour to make its way onto
the
scree (sand and pebble base).
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Click on
the images to see larger versions. |
| Step
10 |
Once
you are satisfied with the outcome of the "leopard
spotting," and the pigment has dried,
it's time to apply the dominant stone
colour. Prepare
a cup of Stone Grey (1:16 pigment to water).
Use this dominant stone colour to wash
all areas
of the "boulders" as well as the
base. If the colour is not rich enough in
your first
wash, apply another coat once the first is
fully dry or cut down on the amount of water
being
used.
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| Step
11 |
Mix equal proportions
of Woodland Scenics Harvest Gold (FL632) and
Wild Honey (FL631) Static Grass in a cup or
shaker. Apply white glue in small, sparse patches
around the boulders. Sprinkle the static grass
mixture over the glue and allow it to dry. Once
the glue and grass have bonded, shake the excess
free onto a piece of folded paper and pour the
excess into the cup or shaker.
Use Woodland Scenics Tall Grass
to add tall, dry grasses to the base. Cut down
the Tall Grass to a suitable height and dip
the grass into a small puddle of white glue.
Place the bottom of the grasses onto the base
and hold the grass upright with tweezers until
it starts to dry in place. |
| Step
12 |
Mix
plaster with water to get a very thick mixture
of almost-unpourable "snow." I used
Woodland Scenics Lightweight Hydrocal Casting
Plaster. Work quickly (plaster tends
to harden very fast; you've got a working time
of about 5-8 minutes) with a small palette knife
or small piece of plasticard. Pile and push
the plaster in the recesses and shadows of the
boulders. Avoid touching the plaster for at
least 20 minutes or so. Thick areas will need
as long as 40 minutes to dry. For the trampled
snow, lightly press the rounded edge of the
sculpting tool into the plaster before it's
entirely dry.
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The
Finished Cliff Face
Below are two images of the finished cliff face from
both a top-down view (right) as well as a horizontal
three-quarter view (left). To make cliffs that are
choked with snow, try spreading plaster over all
of
the flat planes that face skyward. The result will
be a mostly snowy face with bits of dark colour
and
dead vegetation peeking through.
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