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Gaming
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Painting and Modeling
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Extras
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| RESOURCES
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| ARMIES
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Click
on the images to see larger versions.
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| Step
1 |
Cut out Masonite (hardboard)
bases and sand down the edges to a suitable angle. |
| Step
2 |
Build up the base
with Apoxie Sculpt (two-part putty from Aves Studio).
Press stones and pebbles of varying size into
the putty to simulate boulders. Push any displaced
putty back against the rocks with a wet finger
or sculpting tool. Give the putty time to dry
fully before continuing to the next step. Depending
on the putty's thickness, drying could take about
half a day or longer. |
| Step
3 |
Apply
a layer of white (PVA) or wood glue to the base
(avoid the rocks). Sprinkle coarse sand over
the glue before it dries. Allow the glue to
dry and shake off any loose sand into a container
for future use.
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Click on
the images to see larger versions. |
| Step
4 |
Basecoat the entire
piece of scenery with Skull White Spray Primer.
This basecoat may require a few passes for full
coverage. |
| Step
5 |
Once again (just
like with the Snowy
Cliff Face), I used the Woodland
Scenics Liquid Pigment Earth Colour
Kit (C1215) to stain
the large rocks. Once the primer is dry, heavily
dilute the kit colours with water. Apply
them
to the rocks in a "leopard spot" pattern
with the applicator. Since stone is very rarely
one solid colour, daub on a secondary colour
with this "leopard spot" technique. Prepare
two separate cups with the following Earth
Colours: Black
(1:32 pigment to water) and Burnt Umber (1:16
pigment to water). Daub the secondary colour
on in rough patches. Don't cover the entire
white surface. If the colour is not rich enough,
apply another coat once the first is dry or
cut down on the amount of water being used.
Don't be afraid to allow some of this colour
to make its way onto the scree (sand and pebble
base).
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| Step
6 |
Once
you are satisfied with the outcome of
the "leopard
spotting" and the pigment has dried, it's
time to apply the dominant stone colour. Prepare
a cup with Stone Grey (1:16 pigment to water).
Use this dominant stone colour to wash all
areas
of the "boulders" as well as the
base. If the colour is not rich enough for
your first
wash, apply another coat once the first is
fully dry or cut down on the amount of water
being
used.
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Click on
the images to see larger versions. |
| Step
7 |
Mix
equal proportions of Woodland Scenics Harvest
Gold (FL632) and Wild Honey (FL631) Static
Grass in a cup or shaker. Apply white glue
in small, sparse patches around the boulders.
Sprinkle the static grass mixture over the
glue and allow it to dry. Once the glue and
grass have bonded, shake the excess free onto
a piece of folded paper and pour the excess
into the cup or shaker.
Use Woodland Scenics Tall
Grass to add tall, dry grasses to the base.
Cut down the Tall Grass to a suitable height
and dip the grass' into a small puddle of
white glue. Place the bottom of the grasses
onto the base and hold the grass upright with
tweezers until it starts to dry in place. |
| Step
8 |
Mix
plaster with water to get a very thick mixture
of almost-unpourable "snow." I used
Woodland Scenics Lightweight Hydrocal Casting
Plaster. Work quickly (plaster tends to harden
very fast; you've got a working time of about
5-8 minutes) with a small palette knife or
small piece of plasticard and pile and push
the plaster in the recesses and shadows of
the boulders. Avoid touching the plaster for
at least 20 minutes or so. Thick areas will
need as long as 40 minutes to dry.
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| Step
9 |
Add
extra details like lichen.
A little bit of
this detailing goes a long way, and it's
not that hard. Dampen
a Q-tip with water and
dab
at the rock. Use the reverse (dry) side of
the Q-tip and gently
rub away the pigment
on the boulder. Since the Woodland Scenics
Earth Colour Kit is
not waterproof, the colour
will rub back down to reveal the white basecoat.
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