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- Special Characters:
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| RESOURCES
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| ARMIES
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When I first started collecting High Elf regiments I settled
on Archers as the first to paint. They were a good starting
point as they are a core unit. They are mainly clothed in
robes so the layered highlighting technique is
a perfect way to paint these models to a good army standard.
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Layered Highlighting
This technique is described in the painting section of the
High Elf Army book. Ill explain why layered highlighting
is so important to how I paint my miniatures. Most armies
can be readily painted by using drybrushing and ink washing
techniques. However, I believe High Elves are a definite exception
to this rule. The whole nature of High Elves is that of being
bright and clean, elements that need to be matched with the
style that you paint them. Drybrushing and ink washing tend
to be a little less precise when applied compared to deliberate
brush strokes -- the best way is to apply layered highlighting.
Highlights can be as simple or as extensive as you want.
Starting with the darkest colour as a basecoat, each successive
colour applied can quite easily be a standard Citadel colour.
For example, to paint a leather effect start with a basecoat
of Bestial Brown, followed by a highlight of Snakebite Leather,
next a highlight of Bubonic Brown then the extremities or
highest parts highlighted with Bleached Bone.
This technique is the sort of finish that I like to achieve
for my army. However, when painting individual monsters or
characters, I sometimes mix in varying degrees of highlights
between each standard colour, building them up in succession.
For core, standard regiments you may prefer to simplify the
highlights and start with a lighter base coat. However, I
think the more highlights that are applied the better the
result.
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Click on the thumbnails to see a larger version of each step.
Stage 1
After undercoating the model with Chaos Black spray, I painted
the robes with Codex Grey. I then painted the flesh
areas,
the bow, the hair, the quiver casing and any belts or pouches
that are going to have an appearance of leather with
Bestial
Brown. Other clothed areas like the shirt and trousers, I
painted with Blood Red -- this helps to give the Red
Gore
that I will paint over it a more vibrant appearance, compared
to painting it over the black undercoat.
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Stage 2
I used Fortress Grey to highlight the robes, leaving the deeper
recesses Codex Grey to act as shading. I highlighted the face
and hands with Dwarf Flesh and highlighted the bow, the hair,
the casing and leather items with Snakebite Leather. The hair
could be left at this point or any other stage after this depending
on how light you want it to be. I sometimes like to have a mixture
of different hair colour, so I highlight it to differing stages
on various models. The shirt and trousers I then painted with
Red Gore. |
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Stage 3
The final highlight on the robes was with Skull White leaving
the previous grey highlights to further act as a graduated
shading. The face and hands were highlighted with Elf Flesh
and the bow and the quiver casing were highlighted with Bubonic
Brown. I lightly highlighted the leather items, just on the
edges with Bubonic Brown. The hair can be lightly drybrushed
with Bubonic Brown. The other cloth areas were highlighted
with a mix of Blood Red and Red Gore.
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Stage 4
The face and hands were given a final highlight of Pallid
Flesh just on the extremities. The bow, the quiver casing
and the edges of the pouch were highlighted with Bleached
Bone. The hair can also be drybrushed further with Bleached
Bone to give a blonde colour. Any metallic areas, like the
face guard, bow edges, quiver case decoration and gem surrounds
were painted with Shining Gold, being very careful not to
paint anything already painted. After painting the gems (in
my quick and easy way -- see below) I finished the model off
by basing it using sand and static grass and painting the
edges Goblin Green.
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 Painting
all the gems on High Elves can be a laborious task (there
are quite a lot!) so to minimise the time spent, I needed
a quick and simple method. I began with a coat of Snot Green,
which I then painted over with Green Ink and left to dry.
Finally I applied a coat of gloss varnish to give them a highly
polished finish.
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Part
One / Part
Two / Part
Three / Part
Four
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