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Orks rarely think defensively. They're
more for mobbing the Boyz up and running full speed at the
enemy. However, a cunnin' greenskin boss will position his
walls in such a way as to maximize his force's defensive firepower,
such as his Kannons and Lobbas!
Rick Smith of the US Web Studio illustrates how he made this
Ork Wall from start to finish. He walks you through a step-by-step
guide on how to make this piece of scenery.
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Cut out a piece of Masonite. It
can be any shape, but the form will dictate how long or what
bends can be made on the length of wall. Use a band saw. If
you don't have access to a band saw, use a hack saw or a handheld
jig saw. Do not use these power tools if you are young and have
no parental supervision. |
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Using 9/16" thick insulation
Styrofoam, measure out a wall that is 2" high and 12"
long with a felt-tipped pen. Starting from the left side, measure
in 7". Draw a line here. This mark will be the corner of
your wall. Now, rough out the jagged, broken edges on both the
left and right sides. While planning the rough sections of the
broken wall, remember to make adjustments for where large blocks
may be jutting from the rubble. |
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Put aside the walls and pick up
an hobby knife and some plasticard. Cut the card into long
strips of varying thickness. Now, cut them into small bricks.
Round the edges by laying your brick onto a flat surface (not
your mother's kitchen table!) and cut downward until the edges
are rounded. Now, cut the edges of the brick at a 45-degree
angle with small, quick slices. Finally, on only a few bricks,
cut out triangular marks for some easy detailing. |
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Also using plasticard, make a metal
plate to patch a hole in the wall. Cut a larger "brick"
and round the edges. Now, using an hobby, hack into the edge
at a 45 degree angle. Flip the card over and repeat this cut
back into your previous cut to create a small "V"
shape. Find a wheel well from an Ork buggy and cut the bolts
off of it. Using superglue, glue these to your metal plate.
To create the look of a missing rivet, use an hobby to drill
down into the plasticard. |
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Now, assemble the wall. Using the hobby knife, cut the wall
in half. Now, cut a triangle out of each wall to form a corner
(remember: This is an Orky wall. What Ork would worry if his
wall was a perfect 90 degree angle? This one sure didn't!).
Use your finger to apply a thin layer of woodglue to the wall
corner joint. Press these together and apply a layer of glue
to the bottom of the wall. Glue it down to the Masonite base.
Also at this juncture, attach your bricks to the wall in
their proper places with more wood glue. Let everything dry
completely – this may require an hour or more.
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With a sanding block or fine piece
of sandpaper, sand the harsh corners into smooth rounded edges.
If there are any plasticard bricks that hang over the crumbled
edges of the wall, take care not to sand these areas. |
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With two small offcut leftovers
of foam, use the hobby knife to hack the shape of a rock into
four of their six sides. Two sides must remain untouched so
that it will lay flush against the wall and the Masonite base.
Use more woodglue and glue these two rock halves opposite each
other on each side of the wall. |
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Once everything is completely dry,
use the sanding block to smooth down the sharp corner of the
wall. If there is still a gap from where the joint meets, use
some spackling to fill in the opening. |
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Now, gather together all the Orky
bitz you can find. Barrels, engine blocks from Ork buggies,
gas cans, tires... all sorts of detritus. Glue these down to
the Masonite base with superglue. Pile them up if you'd like. |
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Texture the wall with paint. It
doesn't matter what colour is used, but lighter colours
make it
harder to see where the brush has been. Try to keep the paint
away from the metal plate and the plastic bits. The first
coat
should seal the foam. Make sure that every Styrofoam surface
is covered. This seal will safeguard the foam against melting
when the scenery is primed with spray primer. The second coat
will texture the foam. When painting this second coat, apply
the paint with the side of the brush. Do not thin the paint
with water. The paint must be thick to retain the brush
texture
when applied to the wall. |
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Flock the base with sand, small
stones, and woodglue. Allow it to dry thoroughly. |
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Finally, add spikes to the wall
with a little bit of wood glue (the spikes shown on the following
page were taken from the old Ork Battlewagon kit, but you can
easily make shards of metal as described for the steel plate.)
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Now that you've assembled, textured,
sealed, based, and primed the wall, it's time to paint it! |
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