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Click the images below to see larger versions.
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| Step
7 |
There are several building
materials you can use for doorways, but the
ones
we thought would work best are gutter C-clamps
like those shown above. They look like cross-sections
of doorways, have a built-in "door control"
recess, and won't block model movement. You can
get these for about $2 each. |
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| Step
8 |
To give this corridor section a nicely
infested look, we decided that we were going to
cover the walls with what can best be described
as Tyranid "creep." Pretty much every
Tyranid in the range has some bio-mechanical ribbing
on it, and we wanted to incorporate that look here.
If you just want a regular corridor, skip our Tyranid
infestation steps. If not, find some 1/2"-diameter
electrical cord tubing like that shown above. Cut
off about a 5" length of this tubing and cut
this section in half lengthwise to get two hemispherical
5" sections. |
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| Step
9 |
Time to start bringing all this stuff
together. Glue the doorways on the edges of the
corridor floor with super glue. Depending on how
far back you cut the overhang, you'll have to push
the doorways in and force the gutter to accommodate
them – it will bend into shape. If that's
the case, add some glue to where the door and the
gutter meet. Once the doorways dry, trim down your
lighting grid section to fit between the doorways.
Glue the grid down with super glue – if your
gutter has a slight bend to it, you can use the
grid to correct for this by applying weight to it
while it dries (you'll need at least 10 lbs.). Next,
glue in the tubing halves to the back wall of the
corridor with super glue. |
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| Step
10 |
Find some 2" wall
vents like those above. You can get a six-pack
for
about $10. The ones we found had a slightly rough
texture to the plastic, which will be ideal
for
drybrushing later. |
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| Step
11 |
The vents are probably going to be
too deep, so you'll need to cut down the back ring
so it's only 1/4" deep. Use your cutting tool
to cut off this ring like shown above. |
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| Step
12 |
Glue one of the trimmed-down vents
to the centre of the back wall with super glue. |
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| Step
13 |
Time to bulk out the
Tyranid infestation with Apoxie Sculpt putty from
Aves
Studio (though you can do this step with any
epoxy putty, including green stuff). Use your imagination
and go for the corrupted organic look – just
make sure you incorporate the tubing you glued in
before. |
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| Step
14 |
Do this step before the putty dries.
Don't glue it down just yet, but lay down the crochet
grid to make sure your putty work won't block it.
You can make a few infestation tendrils stop right
at the edge of the grid. This way, after you paint
everything and glue the grid down, you can extend
the tendrils over the grid with green stuff and
paint them to give the scenery more depth and enhance
the "eww" effect. |
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| Step
15 |
You're almost done. Get some plasticard
2-mm square rod and cut it into three sections.
Two should be about 1" in length –
place these on the floor of each doorway to support
the crochet grid that overlaps the doorways. The
other will serve as the handrail. Measure it out,
cut it down, and glue it between the doorways
with super glue. Make the door controls from thin
plasticard and place them in the doorway slots
provided. Cut several lengths of plasticard pipes
of varying diameter to serve as Hulk plumbing
and glue them to the deck and over the doorways
to cover the overhang cut. Add a couple of metal
bitz from the Dwarf Flame Cannon and Bolt Thrower
in the Warhammer range (file off any Dwarf icons,
of course) to get the plumbing valves and the
like. Ta-da: Space Hulk corridor ready
for paint!
Again, don't glue down the crochet grid just
yet – you'll have a much easier time painting
without it in place. |
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