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The Whirlwind
turret has been slightly
converted
with the removal of two missiles.
Note: Do this step
before assembling the missile
pods.
To do this step, clip off the
tip of the warhead with clippers
and then use a large pin vise
bit to drill straight through
to the other side. Use a hobby
blade to widen the hole and
use
a round file to smooth any jagged
edges.
To create the torn
metal base, place a 40-mm round
base on top of a thin piece of
plasticard and trace it with a
fine permanent pen. Following
the tracing as a guide, cut jagged
gouges into the plastic and bend
a few corners upward to look like
metal under torsion. Glue the
cupola to the plasticard.
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To
suggest a jerry-rigged firing contraption,
you can add a power cell to the
Whirlwind turret. Take both the
cell and the cable from the Imperial
Guard Heavy Weapons Sprue. Glue
these items together and then attach
them to the base of the launcher
cupola with super glue.
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To
illustrate the stress
inflicted
on the seal between the Whirlwind’s
top panel and the turret when
it
blew, carefully score the surrounding
plastic with an hobby knife. Pass
the blade just under the surface
of the plastic and clean away
any
plastic shavings. |
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You can model one
of the top hatches in the open
position.
You will need two of the alternate
Rhino top plates. On one plate,
remove
one door with an hobby knife. Take
care not to damage or remove the
rounded
hinges. On the second top plate,
cut out the same door, but carefully
remove
the rounded hinges. On the second
matching door, cut out two divots
to receive the hinges from the top
plate. Then, cover the door with
a
very thin piece of plasticard and
add a handle bar. Lastly, use
the
same thin plasticard and glue on
two small rectangles to complete
the hinges.
Once the glue has dried, use the
smallest pin vise bit to put two
holes in each
hinge plate. |
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Because you can flip
the Rhino's top plates, the hatch
door you have created will have the
texture of a exhaust vent on its
reverse side. The thin plasticard
has hidden much of this texture,
but
you will have to deal with the edge
of the hatch in order to make it
appear as if it is solid metal.
With green stuff putty, fill any
triangular gaps that are facing
outward.
Once the putty has set, carefully
use a sharp hobby knife to trim
down any rough edges. If you’re
still not satisfied, polish off
your
putty work with a fine file. Your
putty work will look something like
the image above before you trim it
down. |
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To
further suggest an internal
explosion,
you can model the driver's hatch
so it's slightly ajar. This
conversion
is very simple to complete. Use a
hobby knife to trim down both
hinges
to at least a 45-degree angle. Glue
the hinges to the tank so
that the
hatch is cracked open. |
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Now that you have assembled your damaged
Whirlwind, it’s time to move on
to the next two steps – creating
a “waterline” to guide you
in sanding down your vehicle so that it
juts awkwardly out of the scenic base.
Grab a fine, permanent felt-tipped pen
and a roll of masking tape and get ready
to distress your tank further.
Next:
Creating a Guide Line for Sanding
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